This guide shows how to lower the armhole of a garment to create more ease in this area. The adjustment may be particularly helpful for those who experience swelling post-mastectomy, or for those who have general sensitivity under the arm.
This adjustment would work for any garment with a set-in sleeve or raglan sleeve, such as the Fable Dress, Scenic Top, Vista Top, Breeze Shirt, Driftwood Blouse, or Pixie Coat.
Materials
- Front and Back body, Sleeve pattern pieces (we're demonstrating with the Fable Dress*)
- Scissors
- Tape
- Pencil
- Scrap paper
*Note that the Fable Dress has a front princess seam bodice. The method is the same for other tops that have a different construction, such as the Scenic and Fable Tops.
Adjust pattern pieces
1. Cut out the lower armhole, just below the front and back notches. One line will be parallel to the grainline, and the other at a right angle.
2. Slide the lower armhole section down as far as required for comfortable wear. Place a piece of scrap paper behind and tape in place.
3. Blend the lines.
4. Tape a piece of scrap paper to each side of the Sleeve pattern piece. Extend the armhole by the same amount that the armhole section was dropped (above). Draw a new line on each side to taper the sleeve edges towards the hem.
Cut and sew your garment using your newly-adjusted pattern pieces. When making pattern adjustments, we always recommend sewing a muslin before cutting into your precious "good" fabric to ensure a good fit.
Enjoy wearing a garment custom fit to your body!
The Twig + Tale Fable Dress, Scenic Top, and Vista Top patterns include pre-adjusted pattern pieces for post-mastectomy/flat-front (flat front, one, or both sides). The patterns also include a custom tutorial and specific fitting resources.
