This is a simple and quick pattern modification that can be used to adjust pull-on style pants for a fuller abdomen by increasing the front rise. Use your own measurements to customise the rise of the trousers for your preference and comfort.
This adjustment can be used with the Shore Pants, Cove Shorts, and Coastal Shorts.
Materials
- Pattern pieces (we're using the Shore Pants)
- Measuring tape
- Scrap paper
- Pencil
- Ruler
- Scissors
Measure
To determine how much length to add to the rise of your trousers, use the following method to measure rise:
- Tie a ribbon around your waist at the height you would like the waistband to sit.
- Place the end of the tape measure on the ribbon at the centre back, thread it through the legs, and bring it up to the ribbon at the centre front, keeping the bottom of the crotch/rise seam at the position you want it to sit between your legs (allowing for ease).
- Pull the tape measure up to meet the ribbon at the front and note the measurement.
Compare your own measurement to the rise measurement for your size in the Finished Garment Measurement Chart (in the pattern tutorial). If the measurement on the chart is smaller than your body measurement, or doesn't provide enough ease for a comfortable fit, then add the difference to the pattern front rise.
For example, the size 50 Shore Pants have a rise of 31.9" (81cm). Our sample sewist measures and finds that they need a rise of 35" (73.5cm) for a comfortable fit that brings the waistband up to the desired position at the front. Calculate the difference between the two measurements to figure out how much to add:
| Finished garment rise measurement | 31.9" (81cm) |
| Sample sewist rise measurement | 35" (89cm) |
| Difference = amount to add | 3.1" (8cm) |
Note that the amount of ease required will vary depending on personal preference as well as the intended fit of the trousers.
Adjust the pattern pieces
1. Cut through the lengthen/shorten line on the Front pattern piece, stopping at the seam allowance on the side seam, leaving a bit of paper intact to create a pivot point 3/8" (1cm) from the pattern edge.
2. Pivot the front rise until it is lengthened the amount determined above. In our example, this is 2.8" (7cm).
3. Put a piece of paper behind the pattern and tape it in place to secure the two pieces. Blend the front rise so it is a smooth curve.
4. Using the line drawn across the Front pattern piece above as a guide, mark a line across the Front Pocket Bag and Back Pocket Bag pattern pieces at the same position.
5. Lay the Front Pocket Bag over the Trousers Front pattern piece in line with the notch and side seam. Cut along the line up to but not through the side seam to create a pivot point.
6. Pivot the top of the Front Pocket Bag until it lines up with the top of the adjusted front waist and the pocket opening. Put a piece of paper behind the pocket and tape in place.
Repeat these steps to adjust the Back Pocket Bag pattern piece.
Once the pattern pieces are adjusted, continue to cut and sew as outlined in the tutorial. We always recommend sewing a muslin to check the fit before cutting into your final fabric.
Enjoy wearing trousers with a customized fit!
Please feel free to join us at the Twig + Tale Facebook group where you can ask questions, look for inspiration, and of course share photos of your creations.
Read more fitting tutorials for the Shore Pants, Cove Shorts, and Coastal Shorts here:
