October 21, 2024
The Cascades Top is designed with elbow length sleeves. You may prefer a shorter or longer sleeve to change up the look or add more drama to your garment!
Be aware of fabric width when adding length to the sleeve as the back piece may become too wide for your fabric which will necessitate the addition of a centre back seam.

 

Materials

Gather some basic materials to adjust the pattern pieces:
  • Back, Front and Side Front Cascades Top pattern pieces
  • measuring tape
  • scrap paper
  • tape
  • ruler
  • pen/pencil
  • scissors
  • optional: french curve, pattern master or flexible curve ruler

Measure

Use the method on the "Measuring for a Good Fit" page of the tutorial to measure your desired sleeve length - beginning from the back neck bone, run the measuring tape across and over the shoulder, and down the arm to where you want the sleeve hem to sit.

You may need a helper to hold the measuring tape at the back of your neck.

Compare this measurement to your Back pattern piece.

To add length to the sleeves: add 1/2" (1.3cm) to the difference between your desired sleeve length and the pattern and this is how much you will need to add to the pattern.


To shorten the sleeves: subtract the amount you want to shorten from the pattern.

Lengthen the Sleeves

1.  Tape scrap paper beneath the Back pattern piece. Using a ruler, extend the line of the shoulder until it is the length you have determined you need to add.

Smoothly shape the side edge to meet your desired hem length curve. A french curve, pattern master or flexible curve ruler can help with creating a smooth line.

2. Tape paper to the Front and Side Front. Trace the same shape as you have created for the Back onto the Front pieces.

It is a good idea to try on your Cascades before hemming it so that you can check that you like the shape of your Sleeve curve and trim it as desired before finishing the hem.

Shorten the Sleeves

If you wish to shorten the sleeve - simply subtract the amount you want to shorten from the pattern pieces.

1. Starting with the Back piece, redraw the side edge while keeping the curve into the hem smooth. Trim off the removed length.


 

2. Trace the new side shape onto the Side Front. As with the Back, trim off the removed length.

 

 

Remember, we always recommend sewing a muslin to test out your pattern adjustment before cutting into your fancy fabric.  

If you have any questions about sewing or making adjustments to the Plains Dress, please feel free to join us at the Twig + Tale Facebook group.

Smaller Bust Adjustment (SBA) for a Top with a Bust Dart by Twig + Tale

Read more pattern adjustment tutorials here: